There are also some tricks like a mini sump and full flow spin-on oil filter conversion that together will get you up from 2. Hardest part for me was always the heater. As in there isn't one.
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The minimum you want is the kit that puts electric bilge fans under the rear seat and re-routes the input to the heaters to come from the rear interior of the car instead of the engine. That means recirc and less engine fumes, both of which are good, plus enough fan to actually get heat to the front. Adding Subie power cures that as you can get real heat and even add AC without the belt tension wearing out the side of the engine case. Don't know the answer to the trivia question but I have seen them with the reserve lever.
There's also heater kits which use an engine oil cooler mounted inside along with a fan. For me, the killer is that the defroster suxxors big time for the same reason the heat does: the air has to travel up the long rocker panels and then up the tubes to the windshield nozzles, by that time it's at best lukewarm. He lived in Colorado, it was the only way for him to get heat. I've had over 30 custom VWs, mostly later aircooled cars, though there were a couple early cars like a '57 Oval window. The plastic dash pad comes off the later cars and will look like the early cars.
You can bolt the early fenders on and the early lights, as well. This is my '71 flat window Super Beetle with the '65 fenders and tailights on it, and the dash padding removed to make the dash look earlier:. It also had excellent heat and defrosting you couldn't hold your fingers over the defroster vents on the window, as it was too hot.
IRS started in '68 with the autostick Bugs, and '69 across the range. The late '70's 's didn't take well to long high speed runs. Dropped valves. As a Unit Tech at the time , I was kept busy rebuilding engines. The nice thing is that is such a modular engine. Most of the "cheapish" cars this place has sell pretty quickly, but they've had this car for months, if not a year. Granted, I've never stopped to actually look at it closely.
Not with the Gene Berg system.. The GB 5spd kit moves 4th gear to the new 5th gear position and adds another gear in between the old 3rd and 4th. Gene Berg 5 speed.
I'd look at finding one converted to 12v already then swap in a cc motor. I'd do front disc brake conversion too if it were me. Have fun.
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Love those things. But was still a fun cruiser at mph with the top down. The John Muir book is very useful. If you plan to keep the motor that's in the car, make sure it's not a "biscuit motor". I seem to a recall an early road test comparing the Beetle heating system to having a mouse or was it a hampster? You'll need to log in to post. Log in. Login Digital Edition Buy a Subscription. I want something cheap ish , old, simple, and most of all, fun.
You also won't find many that haven't been converted to 12V. There should be an appendix in the Muir book that outlines the model year changes. Being able to unbolt the pan makes for easier floor replacement too. As I tell people who are considering an Alfa, drive one for as long as you can. Good Luck with your quest! There's a market for them if you get one and decide its not for you.
Get ready to do a LOT of maintenance. They required a lot when new, and even more when worn out. Lol, Luke is in Western Oz, their Summer temps are plus.
Beetle model year changes Trivia question: Beetles made before what year did not come with a fuel gauge? This is my '71 flat window Super Beetle with the '65 fenders and tailights on it, and the dash padding removed to make the dash look earlier: It also had excellent heat and defrosting you couldn't hold your fingers over the defroster vents on the window, as it was too hot. It also was near top speed. I know next to nothing about Beetles I had a '71 or so Super Beetle convertible. Jump To Is Your Toolbox Pimped?
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Driving The Porsche Carrera 3. Featured Readers' Ride Kelvin's B. Try Our Other Magazine. Fortunately, Volante Steering Wheels have come to the rescue! We recently brought in Volante Steering Wheels , along with their adapters, into our parts lineup. It is okay to install them on Vanagons if you have power assist steering though! In previous versions of this article, we have treated front suspension and brakes separately. But in the edit of this article we decided to combine them because in the case of Super Beetles you have to take a lot of the same stuff apart to access the brakes, suspension, and sway bars.
With Standard Beetles you run into the same issues because the best method of lowering the car is by using Drop Spindles, and you often have different spindles from Drum or Disc Brakes. On to knowledge and recommendations! Drum brakes do not do this. Another good one is that in many most cases, you may have brake parts that are already worn out beyond specifications! Rather than spending a bunch of time and money to refurbish things only to get stock braking power, you have the perfect opportunity to UPGRADE!
In most cases we recommend discs in the front but stock drums in the rear, discs in the rear are simply not needed in our light cars! Follow along as we guide you along on your front brakes and suspension! If you simply do not have the money for a disc brake kit, get the Super Stopper Brake Shoes for sure. VW tried to give us a headache when they were changing the car through the years, because not only do we have to worry about King and Link or Ball Joint front suspensions, but they changed from 5 Lug to 4 Lug wheels in for the Type 1, and made a change to a small 5 pattern in for the Type 2.!
In the rear no VWs of our kind had rear disc brakes, it was drum only. So rear disc brake kits are not as prevalent as the fronts. Rear Disc Brake Kits are much heavier than drums, and we feel they are not needed on our light cars, so we usually use disc brakes in the front, and drums in the rear. They bolt right on and are about twice as effective as your stock units, and retain your stock E-brake; be sure to replace the brake shoes and wheel cylinders, and check the drums to make sure they are within spec.
The problem with Type 3 rear brakes nowadays is finding them, it has become more difficult over the past decade, AND more of them are very worn out, and you wind up buying expensive type 3 specific drums and wheel cylinders, if you can find them. But the price of rear disc brake kits has come way down, so Type 3 Drums are not your only option anymore. For drum brake owners, we also have added our Super Stopper brake shoes front and rear which increase braking power even with your existing drum brakes.
These Super Stopper brake shoes are an excellent alternative to the much more expensive and complex disc brake conversion. Front suspension: Check to make sure your steering components are not worn out or sloppy. This will also make the car run nice and straight at higher speeds; slightly increased steering effort is needed at parking lot speeds. And if you are lowering, do you use Beam Adjusters, or Lowering Spindles? Both SAW and Avis style require welding of the adjusters to your axle beam!
So if you have the skills and more time than money, weld in adjusters will accomplish the goal. This reduces the tie rod angle, alleviating the bump steer problem, OR giving you much needed room for tie rod clearance! If you want to install front disc brakes with a stock ride height on your Link Pin Beetle or Ghia, get these!
When you are doing the brakes, be sure to get some Stainless Steel Brake Hoses since the stock rubber ones are likely shot. If you are adding Disc Brakes, you can keep the Single Circuit brakes try them, see how it works, they might be fine! The simplest solution if you need to change master cylinders is to change to a Bus Master Cylinder which is 22mm bore for less pedal travel but bolts right in, but the Bus Master Cylinder requires the use of the Bus Brake Fluid Reservoir which a lot of guys prefer anyways because they are less likely to leak, but filling it is more of a chore.
In fact, most countries of the World got the front disc brakes except for North America They held out on us! All of the kits we are listing here are compatible with the stock Dual Circuit Master Cylinder. If you have a Beetle or Super Beetle, you definitely want to upgrade to disc brakes! They will make the car feel more stable at speeds over 50mph. How to get rid of the Super Beetle Shimmy is covered in another article. You WILL need to look at what you have but a quick peek under the front of the car. While you are doing the disc brake conversion , be sure to get some Stainless Steel Brake Hoses since the stock rubber brake hoses are likely shot.
Last item for attention on the Super Beetle are the 40 year old worn out Suspension Bushings. Just suck it up and replace them, it IS worth it! We strongly recommend lowering the front of your Super Beetle, since the rear is probably already sagging! This is a very common issue, and by lowering a front to match the normally sagging rear, it really balances the look of the car out.
Sometimes you will need to trim back the metal a little bit with a Sawz-all or Jig Saw. This was because Super Beetles are much heavier and simply need a stronger bar! No fun to do jobs twice! Bus Type 2 : these had disc brakes beginning in models, the main improvements are and older. These are HUGE upgrades to the lame braking power on these rigs, especially since replacing all the components of the stock brakes costs a small fortune already!
VW Sway Bars, Front and Rear: Plan on 1 hour of labor per bar but the Super Beetle front bar takes a little longer to install, because you end up fighting rusty bolts and nuts. Stock VWs came with only a front sway bar — no sway control in the rear. If you want to improve your handling by upgrading your sway bars, upgrade the one in front first, or do front and rear together. But never add one ONLY to the rear without simultaneously upgrading the front.
If you only have the money to add just ONE bar, make sure to upgrade the front! You can then upgrade the rear at a later time without issue! The standard heavy duty sway bars are fine for most street driven aircooled VWs. Both work very well, and there is no clear advantage of one over the other. There are several easy swap out seat options. A grinder, heat, and Kroil Penetrating Oil will get it off. If you want the best performance possible, you have to think KONI! Once upon a time in the 70s thru 90s , VW Owners had a really limited selection of wheels.
These were stock style wheels that were made in Brazil, it was basically just a stock wheel that was chromed. We have them in. Wide 5 5 x mm for and Older in 4.
Wide 5 5 x mm for and Older in 5. Aside from this very common option, the style options for wheels are now incredible! The extensive use of CNC machining has brought the costs down on wheels to unbelievable levels! Wide 5 5 x mm for and Older. Porsche Pattern 5 x mm. Synthetic Gear Oil : 30 minute job. It will shift like butter in even the coldest temps, and give a slight increase in mileage too!
If you have a new transmission, do NOT use synthetic initially during the break in period.source site
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You can start using Synthetic Gear Oil after your new transmission has about miles on it, the new syncros will be properly broken in by that point in time. So, get some Synthetic Racing Grease and grease it up. Another little known tip is to drill the shock towers and install a grease fitting. Then fill up the towers with the same Synthetic Racing Grease and it will keep out the moisture which rusts the axle beam out from the inside! You took care of your car for Winter with the synthetic lubricants, but what about you? We also have a Mexi-bug Deck Lid Seal for the engine lid.
Add an Oil Filter: The stock engine has a strainer, but not a filter. There are two ways to do this:. But this will not fit busses or Type 3s because your rear engine hanger is right in the way. We put our reputation behind 2 versions. Many of these engines when rebuilt were changed back to the earlier 3-bolt cam style, which is much more common.
Aftermarket cams are almost exclusively the 3-bolt style.
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If you can adjust valves, you can install these, but they MUST be used with shorter push rods. We have 2 quality 1. We feel that 1. Really Nice and a great price too! Never buy them again! Have your flywheel lightened: engine removal is required for this modification. Going to a heavier clutch means you really need to 8-dowel the crank and flywheel connection, which means total engine tear down outside the scope of THIS article. Beyond these, you are looking at much more involved engine modifications, which require engine disassembly or machine work.
Those are jobs for their own articles! However you WILL get a no maintenance item unless you love adjusting points and timing , which gives rock-steady ignition timing under all conditions. In my opinion, this is a must-do modification even for stock cars! Upgrade your Distributor: this upgrade usually astounds VW drivers! If you have a 34 PICT carburetor , this is the distributor for you. The Flamethrower II Distributor has a feature which prevents electronics damage if you leave the ignition on while the engine is not running.
This lets you keep your old look, but have super-modern timing control from your laptop!
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